Inside the £1,200-a-night expedition ship, with a submarine and butlers for all

If you happened to be at Greenwich pier on Monday evening, you would have noticed an unusual addition anchored in the middle of the Thames. A 200-passenger vessel, a gleaming hunk of white that vied for attention with the nearby, restored Cutty Sark. It was yacht-like but substantial, at 539ft long and 76.7ft wide. 

Equipped with 18 zodiacs, 14 kayaks and a submarine, Endeavor is built to sail between icebergs and over choppy waters. Those who book in for a voyage in the Antarctic (once our Government’s travel rules permit) will enjoy all-inclusive excursions led by a dedicated team of 20 experts, including a marine biologist, ornithologist and geologist, among others. Hikes, wildlife spotting and yoga on remote beaches are some of the activities on offer.

I boarded Endeavor on the Thames to get a taste of what it’s like to stay on Crystal Cruises’ first expedition ship, which made its maiden voyage – a circumnavigation of Iceland – in July. It was stopping in London for the night before departing for an 11-night cruise to Lisbon. Cruise itineraries often claim to include a London port, when the ship in fact stops in Tilbury or even Southampton. The maritime grandeur of Greenwich – with the spike of the Shard, the slab of the Walkie Talkie and other City skyscrapers framing the horizon – firmly places you in the capital. 

The layer of grey that had coated the sky that morning had, by 6.30pm, turned to light blue, the sun casting shards of light onto the water. The point of the Meridian line, connecting the North and South Pole, is a fitting place in which to immerse oneself in the concept of expedition cruising.

Stepping on board, it was quickly clear that the adventure available directly from the ship (passengers are kitted up in “mud rooms” before getting aboard zodiacs and kayaks), did not mean skimping on luxury. A palette of jewel tones – amber, emerald and jade – is carried throughout the public areas and cabins. And space is plentiful. Endeavor was carrying around 65 guests when I joined. However, even when at full capacity, it has the largest space per guest ratio of any such ship. Mask wearing is a matter for personal choice, and a number of social distancing measures are still in effect.

The cabins are also generous on space. Deluxe Suites are the entry-level option yet come with a living area (complete with a two-seater sofa, TV and desk), a balcony, a king-sized bed, a mini walk in wardrobe, a neatly compact bar, a sizeable bathroom (with sit down shower) and a separate toilet. 

Those with eyes on something roomier can pick from a penthouse suite, an expedition penthouse (with a separate living area) or – for full luxury – an owner’s suite or expedition suite. The latter pair come with Jacuzzi baths, separate dining areas and details such as glass-enclosed taps. Book into an owner’s suite with a veranda and be prepared to pay up to $171,398 (£127,482) for an 11-night cruise. 

Round-the-clock butler service comes as standard. A dedicated cabin steward is typical among some cruise lines, particularly the upper end of the market that operate small vessels. My butler’s demeanour was a touch more of the command you might expect from Downton’s most illustrious staff than the more laidback stewards I’d met on other small ships and river ships. 

The luxury continues in the onboard restaurants, which include Waterside (the main dining area), Marketplace (which is around the solarium at the aft) and three specialty venues (Umi Umi & Sushi Bar; Prego (a 36-seat area serving Italian food) and The Vintage Room (a private dining spot where wine-pairing dinners are held). Breakfast and lunch are also available in The Bistro. 

In Marketplace, you can expect dishes such as gin-cured salmon gravlax, pan-fried Atlantic halibut and orange crème brûlée. Come breakfast, the menu switches to treats such as Belgian waffle and cinnamon raisin brioche French toast. “Have both!” the waiter insisted as my dining companion deliberated between a main of beef tenderloin and braised beef cheek or broiled king crab legs. 

Entertainment and cocktails are on offer each evening in Palm Court and Crystal Cove. Guest speaker slots also take place here. 

While we polished off pitchers of chocolate martinis I enjoyed a sample of the repertoire of Salvatore, an Italian singer and musician whose range covered Celine Dion, Lionel Ritchie, Tom Jones, Bruce Springsteen and Diana Ross (to name just a handful). His instrumental skill set included the harmonica, piano, saxophone and drums (again, they likely stretched beyond what he revealed during his stint on stage). The pinnacle was his take on We are the World, the American charity song. His voice fluctuated between the tone of the 21 soloists that featured on the record. It would be easy to forget, while drinking in the atmosphere of the evening, that you were sailing to the planet’s farthest ends. Of course, once you stepped out onto deck and spotted a hunk of ice in the distance you’d feel a fresh jolt of wonder. 

When the ship is navigating around the Drake Passage on a wildlife expedition or to the glaciers and fjords of Greenland its high tech equipment comes into play. This includes the submersible, or submarine, a drone and remote operated cameras that feed images back to the ship to be watched on TV from the comfort of the suites. Not forgetting the zodiacs, kayaks and snorkelling gear. At the opposite end of the high-tech spectrum is the humble library, but a well-stocked, adventurers' reading paradise at that. 

Expedition voyages tend to come at a hefty price. Cruises on Crystal Endeavor are no different. Book in for 14 nights round trip from Ushuaia next February – and you’re looking at a cost of at least £13,787.

With the all-inclusive food (and most drinks), excursions and butler service – not to mention marine biologists and submarines at close hand throughout your voyage – expedition cruising is an experience that can’t be replicated as an independent traveller. There is a reason why expedition cruises tend to sell out months in advance.

Over the next year or so, Endeavor will also venture on voyages from Tokyo to Taipei, Bali to Cairns, Tema (Ghana) to Dakar (Senegal). See the full list of voyages and read more about the ship at crystalcruises.co.uk. 

Reader Service: Did you know that some cruise operators require specific cruise travel insurance? Learn how to get the right travel cover for your trip.