The mention of Kazakhstan conjures up images of untouched wilderness and vast plateaus, yet the country is also home to Central Asia's most important and vibrant city. Almaty, the former capital and Silk Route stop, is a thriving cultural hub and the gateway to some of the republic’s most remarkable scenery. Dynamic and diverse, Almaty offers travellers something a bit different. From Soviet speed-skating, horse riding and mountain hiking, these are the top things to do.
1. Breakfast like a local
As the sun rises over Almaty’s glass towers and golden roofs, its residents gather to start the day. Cafés have made a firm mark on the city, and breakfast meetings and brunches have become an essential part of modern Kazakh mornings. With brilliant mountain views and bright clear weather nine months of the year, locals love to spend the time basking on terraces, sipping tea (locals tend to prefer tea to coffee) and tucking into flaky pastries or Western-style eggs.
2. Hike history at Medeu
Every winter, a vast sheet of ice covers the spectacular Medeu Valley. A 20-minute drive south-east from the city centre, the site is also home to the world’s highest skating rink. Built in 1949, the colossal 35,000-square-foot rink is an awe-inspiring example of Soviet architecture, bedecked with fluttering flags and surrounded by soaring peaks. As the ice melts and spring sets in, Almaty’s residents swap their skates for hiking boots and head into the surrounding mountains. Some don’t even wait for the snow to subside, trudging straight up Shymbulak’s half-thawed pistes. Join them in seeking out unbeatable views and aim for the foothills of the spectacular Tian Shan mountain range.
3. Bite into baursak
Almaty is where you’ll experience some of the best of Kazakhstan’s unique cuisine. Start at Zelionyj Bazaar – the city’s main market – a two-storey hall that’s been trading since 1875. Its merchants are generous, happy to offer customers samples of local goods such as honey, dried fruits and distinctive kurt cheese. Once you’ve worked up a proper appetite, head for one of the city’s chic traditional restaurants such as Sandyq and Qaimaq, or the newly opened, neo-nomadic Auyl. Wherever you go, you must try a delicious staple of the Kazakh table: baursak. These deep-fried golden puffs are irresistible, a kind of doughnut that’s pulled apart and served sweet, savoury or simply as it is.
4. Discover Central Asian arts
From contemporary theatre to classic galleries, Almaty has a thriving arts scene. Its mammoth Abylkhan Kasteyev State Museum of Arts offers an in-depth introduction to Kazakh, Soviet and Central Asian artists, such as the museum’s namesake, the painter Abylkhan Kasteyev, and sculptor Isaac Itkind. Creative hubs are cropping up across the city, with spaces including Dom36 and Aspan Gallery producing showcases, performances and events by contemporary artists. Voted a UNESCO City of Music in 2017, Almaty also has a rich musical heritage that visitors can explore at the beautiful Museum of Folk Musical Instruments.
5. Explore Martian-style landscapes
East of Almaty, where the borders of China, Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan meet, the desert-like landscape splits in two. Charyn Canyon is an immense terracotta terrain of striated stacks, sheer ravines – and supposedly unsettled spirits. A teal-tinted river thunders through the valley, an easy walk from the comprehensive tourist centre, but for a truly immersive experience, grab a guide and spend a day trekking Charyn’s challenging terrain.
6. Ride like a nomad
For centuries, horses carried nomadic tribes across the country’s harsh steppes. For a taste of traditional life, spend an afternoon in the company of Kazakhstan’s most revered animal at the Almaty Hills Equestrian Club. Located amid apple orchards, the club and restaurant has a riding arena for learners and trails that take in stunningly unspoilt countryside.
7. Play a round of golf
Teeing off immersed in the spectacular scenery of Tian Shan is hard to beat, which is why Almaty is fast becoming a golfer’s getaway. Bright sunshine and cool breezes, plus incredible views from rolling fairways, make for ideal days on the green. Choose between Zhailjau Golf Resort in Almaty’s southern outskirts, its Palmer-designed course fronted by a stately house, or Nurtau’s manicured green south-east of the city, enveloped by forests and peaks.
8. Kick back in cool bars
Almaty undoubtedly has the best nightlife in Central Asia, with plentiful drinking spots, unique bars and buzzing casinos. For cocktails there’s the dapper Alice in Wonderland-themed Barmaglot Bar, recently lauded in the 50 Best Discovery list of the world’s finest drinking spots, and the hidden, speakeasy-style Yellow Door Bar. For a chi-chi evening try the stylish Agorà Wine and Deli, while live-music fans should follow the cool crowd to the neon-lit Blue Bar.
9. Enjoy Panfilov Park
At the weekend, Almaty families flock to the city’s pretty green spaces. The city is spectacularly tree-lined — its name derives from Alma-ata, meaning ‘city of apples’ – and its parks are bustling, busy, sunlit spaces. The most popular is Panfilov, where you can join the locals lounging on lawns, sampling street food, admiring monuments and watching kids expertly navigate paths on rented mini cars. The park is also home to Zenkov’s Cathedral, a superb Orthodox church of painted wood with domes the colour of gumdrops.
10. Discover ancient viticulture
The region’s anti-alcohol campaign of the 1980s almost destroyed Almaty’s long history of winemaking, but recent efforts to revive the region’s viticulture have resulted in harvests of Chardonnay, Riesling, Merlot, Malbec and other grapes. Arba winery, east of Almaty, offers guided tours, wine-tasting and harvesting events, and is an ideal day trip combined with a visit to The Huns village in Bulak, where you can learn more about the country’s nomadic culture and traditions.
Visit Almaty and learn more about Kazakhstan’s largest city at Kazakhstan.travel.